Mathias Hirtzberger

The Austrian Mathias Hirtzberger (1986) is a descendant of a famous wine family in the Wachau. None other than Mister Singerriedel Franz Hirtzberger from Spitz is his father. The family business was traditionally taken over by the eldest son, Franz Jr. When the younger brother Mathias wanted to indulge his love of wine after studying business administration and a career in banking, he decided to set up his own winery. Fate lent a helping hand. In 2013, the Hirtzbergers bought the Florianihof in Wösendorf, a 13th century building from the Abbey of St. Florian, where they opened their restaurant Hofmeisterei Hirtzberger. Because there was room left, Mathias set up his Weinhofmeisterei here.

Started in 2014
His base? Some 5.5 hectares of first-class vineyards in Wösendorf and Joching and excellent know-how in the cellar, as you would expect from a Hirtzberger offspring. But it was certainly not a blueprint. Mathias started in the not so easy year of 2014, which forced him to thoroughly get to know the special characteristics of his newly acquired land. The Weinhofmeisterei includes some of the most beautiful Wachau vineyards. Each vineyard is fundamentally different. Some vineyards are located on sun-drenched, steep stony (gneiss) terraces with hardly any soil cover. Others on more fertile and water-rich soil directly on the Danube. And still others are located high up near the forest at 350 to 390 meters above sea level. “It’s about developing the characteristics and reproducing them as authentically as possible,” says the young Wachauer. “In the cellar I work absolutely naturally and with as few interventions as possible, because I don’t want any other taste than that of the specific vineyard.” The second year
In 2015 Mathias impressively demonstrated that his style differs from that of his family in Spitz and that his own wines are already of the highest level. His lighter ‘weapon’ wines, a reference to the elements of the coat of arms of the old abbey with names such as Stab, Treu, Zier and Greif, were well received. And his Smaragd wines were also completely convincing then. With the Grüner Veltliner from the steep Kollmütz in Wösendorf, the spicy Spitaler at the foot of the Kollmitz, a brilliant Riesling emerald at the top of the Kollmitz. An extremely steep and very special location is the Ried Bach, which produces a very mineral Riesling style.

The harvest
Mathias harvests between the beginning of October and the end of November – quite late compared to most other regions. He strives for perfect ripeness of the grapes to guarantee the best quality and typicity in the cellar. The work there is therefore limited to a necessary minimum. “The quality comes from the vineyards, it is my job to preserve that without adding anything in the cellar. All wines are fermented in steel. But some Smaragd wines also mature in wooden foudres, in only large, very neutral barrels.”